Valdorcia 8

“ Lovely Villa with Magnificent View ”

Villa d’Orcia is an elegant older house overlooking Val d’Orcia. It offers good bedding, a well equipped kitchen, functional bathrooms, a variety of herbs, Gelasio who oversees the house during the owner’s absence, two dogs and two cats who will make you feel right at home! Oh, and a stunning, private swimming pool.

It would be good to develop more shaded areas with good garden furniture. The dirt and gravel road needs work.

All in all, very delightful!

“ Peace, tranquillity, no neighbours, a lovely garden with the most beautiful view. ”

This is very much "borrowing" a much loved but probably 1970s lovely Italian family holiday house, once a farm, on a remote hillside - not a standard holiday rental property with pristine white walls and health and safety certificates in abundance.

So you get a real experience of Val d'Orcia as published by Iris Origo. It is a very happy house with a lovely well-tended garden that grows on you as the week progresses but you need to dispense with some modern comforts and just relax into the beautiful scenery and exist with the wild things that live in the forest!

Plenty to do within a short drive including Al Foce gardens and if you start missing the high life you just pop up to the spanking brand new Monteverdi hotel (and wellbeing centre) for evening negronis or Aperolspritz's in the sunset and let the car just roll back down the hill when satiated! Some great local restaurants too but why not take the River Cafe Italian cookbook and try some things out using local produce? Arezzo , Pienza etc all an hour's drive away for cultural intake.

If you are at home in the countryside, like animals and want to do the real Italy off the beaten track with a bit of adventure thrown in then this is a jewel. If you are at all high maintenance, prone to complaining about the facilities, dislike driving off-road, with kids who won't sit still for 2 seconds then you should be in Rome not Val d'Orcia... or get a life!

PS. The secret of finding the property, which isn't easy on arrival, is to use Google Maps and drop a pin. An option is to get cheaper BA flights on Thursday, stay at Wine Resort Dievole in Chianti on the saving, and then drive to Val d'Orcia on the Saturday in plenty of time - well stocked up with mixed crate of Dievole chianti rose & olive oil to last the week.

“ ...a jewel in the Tuscan countryside ”

We had a really lovely time in Valdorcia - all the family thought the house and location was great - a jewel in the Tuscan countryside. Our daughter and son in law would like to revisit with friends at some point in time. All yours and Sarah's assistance was much appreciated with the wonderful catering we had one night and all the travel instructions. Matteo the owner was charming and helpful also on the 2 occasions we had to reach out to him . We spent most evenings either having a barbecue or other in house cooking as we had the grand kids with us but obviously we were out three nights with the family wedding and also tried a recommended restaurant in Sarteano on the Valdorcia house list which was great.

“ ... a beautiful old stone farmhouse ”

Valdorcia is a beautiful old stone farmhouse sitting high up on a sloping property overlooking the valley of the same name. Access is partly via a bumpy, unpaved road for just over a kilometre, which some may find challenging but we found added to the charm and deterred unnecessary traffic. The house is quite remote with no neighbours close by. Because of the altitude of the property, we found it breezy when we were there in September, but that didn’t stop us enjoying the magnificent view from the front of the house.

Rooms are large with high ceilings. Downstairs is an enormous kitchen/dining room with a large table seating eight, as well as a small area with a table for four. The kitchen is “rustic” but well equipped with six gas rings, a wall oven, a large old fireplace for grilling, and a new dishwasher. The pantry, which contains the fridge/freezer (and adjacent powder (cloak) room) is around 15 paces from the kitchen sink which makes for lots of walking. However, given the quality and quantity of Tuscan food, lots of walking is a good thing.

The main floor also has a small sitting area at the end of the dining/kitchen and a bedroom with en suite bathroom.

Upstairs there are five bedrooms, two with en suite bathrooms, and one particularly charming “library” bedroom. The communal bathroom is enormous and its anteroom has a washbasin and a washing machine. There is a lovely sitting room with comfortable sofas and chairs and a huge stone fireplace. A good place to sip Limoncello after dinner.

The caretaker lives on the property with his two friendly dogs. He brought us fresh figs, huge fresh eggs from his chickens, dark red, sweet tomatoes from the garden, as well as lettuces and onions. He is a real asset to the property, putting out garden chairs in the morning and maintaining the grounds beautifully, including the large swimming pool.

Sarteano, the local town, has a small but well-stocked supermarket, as well as some superb restaurants. We were given a list of recommended restaurants in the area by the owner of the farmhouse and every one was wonderful. On two occasions, Rita from Sarteano arrived with her bags and made three-course dinners of typical Tuscan food – enough for the eight of us for lunch next day as well.

The autostrada was fairly close (20 minutes drive) so visiting other areas from this property is relatively easy.

“ ...a place to be treasured ”

We have just returned from a wonderful visit to Valdorcia. This lovely house sits high up, with a magnificent view over the Val d’Orcia, which was a constant source of pleasure and inspiration. The house is large, with six bedrooms, but occupancy is limited to 8 people, which means that there is plenty of room for all. There are four shower rooms (two en suite, and one of the others has a bathtub too), and there is the added convenience of a separate toilet on the ground floor.

The kitchen is large and exceptionally well equipped, with more than enough pots and pans to satisfy even the most ardent cook. The dining table seats eight comfortably, and there is a very convenient seating area just off the kitchen, ideally placed so that those not involved in meal preparation can provide a stream of advice. The living room, on the first floor, has comfortable seating for at least eight people, with plenty of light and a fireplace for cooler evenings.

We were welcomed to Valdorcia by charming owners Matteo and his wife. They are justifiably proud of their house, and pay guests the compliment of furnishing it with family possessions. However, as beautiful and comfortable as the house and surroundings are, most the best thing about our stay was Gelasio, the caretaker. He lives on the premises, and has the knack of being totally unobtrusive unless needed. It seems that he can turn his hand to anything, but we particularly appreciated the way he produced fresh eggs, salad greens and figs almost before we knew that we needed them. Under his care the grounds and pool are kept immaculate.

We had two excellent meals prepared for us by Rita, who came in to cook, and also enjoyed several restaurants in the area. It is true that it is difficult to find a substandard meal in Italy, but we would like to say that the restaurants recommended in the house notes were outstanding. Other reviewers have rightly praised Ristorante Santa Chiara in Sarteano, but good as it is, we felt that Osteria da Gagliano also in Sarteano, is even better. All credit to Matteo for these recommendations, and also for sending us to Zi’ Pina in Fiumicino, where we spent our last night in Italy before returning (reluctantly) to Canada. Overall, Valdorcia is a place to be treasured, and returned to as often as possible.

“ We would love to come again! ”

We loved Valdorcia – the house and grounds had the most wonderful atmosphere which we fell in love with as soon as we arrived and met the owner. So many glorious things about it but perhaps above all the view from the property which is stunning whether sitting under the big oak tree in front of the house which provides such marvellous shade or from down at the pool. I absolutely loved early morning walks up to Castligioncello del Trinoro where the staff were always very friendly and it was possible to get coffee and a pastry on the terrace with the spectacular view back down over the house. We were also fortunate enough to catch one of the concerts there – quite amazing – such an astonishing quality of musician performing without charge to the audience and in such an intimate venue.

One of our guests and myself are keen walkers so we also enjoyed walking through the woods above the property to La Foce (War in Val D’Orcia is such an interesting read if you have visited the area).

The house itself was very comfortable and we all loved the fact that it felt like such a home – several of us are avid readers and would have loved to be able to read Italian as just seeing the depth and range of books was amazing. The kitchen was very well equipped and we ate in a great deal but we had a good dinner at Santa Chiara in Sarteano, a wonderful lunch at Osteria La Porta in Monticchiello and a very good casual lunch in Radicofani.

Above all though we would all like to say a huge thank you to Gelasio who was such a kindly and humble presence throughout the week – our Italian was almost non-existent as is his English so I was constantly anxious that when we tried to ask him something we sent him to a paroxysm of anxiety, however, he communicated particularly well with one of our number who is a wonderful listener and a great gardener and I will never forget him bringing her a wonderful basket of figs – so beautifully presented with the basket all lined with fig leaves.

We would love to come again!

“ We had a great time at Valdorcia ”

We had a great time at Valdorcia, and could not fault the house. In particular, the owner Matteo and his wife were very helpful in showing us around on arrival. The housekeeper, Gelasio, was around most of the time but we didn’t find this intrusive. Despite the language barrier, we were just about able to communicate with Gelasio when needed. The gardens were really well kept and the views across the valley were fantastic.

The house is along a rough steep track, about 1 mile off the main road. This was not an issue for us but might be worth warning people about this.

We ate out at Ristorante Santa Chiara in nearby Sarteano which we would recommend. Good food and service in an interesting location of an ex convent.